James Milledge Papers, 1960-1981 (MSS 0455)

Extent: 0.6 Linear feet (2 archives boxes)

The papers of James Milledge, a British high altitude physiologist and mountaineer.

James Milledge is a British physiologist educated at the University of Birmingham. Specializing in chest medicine, he was on the staff of Christian Medical College from 1962 to 1972. Since 1972, he has been a scientific member of the the Medical Research Council at Northwick Park Hospital and a consulting physician.

Milledge was a member of the 1960/1961 Silver Hut expedition to Mt. Everest, which was led by Sir Edmund Hillary. He spent the winter months during that expedition at 5800 meters, studying the long term effect of high altitude on humans. In the Second School House expedition to Everest in 1964, also led by Hillary, Milledge investigated some of the physiological differences between Sherpas and lowlanders at high altitude. Milledge was also a member of the American Medical Research Expedition to Everest, which was organized and led by John B. West in 1981.

The papers of James Milledge, a British high altitude physiologist and mountaineer. The collection includes diaries, databooks, correspondence, and clipping files documenting Milledge's participation in the 1960-61, 1964, and 1981 expeditions to Mt. Everest and the 1981 expedition to Mt. Kongur in eastern China. The correspondence is primarily between Milledge and his wife and other family members during Milledge's different visits to Everest.

Arranged in three series: 1) BIOGRAPHICAL MATERIALS, 2) CORRESPONDENCE and 3) EXPEDITIONS.

Container List

BIOGRAPHICAL

Box: 1 Folder: 1
UC San Francisco Clinical Certificate and Photograph
Box: 1 Folder: 2
Vita

CORRESPONDENCE

Box: 1 Folder: 3
American Thoracic Society - Gordon M. Meade
Box: 1 Folder: 4
Bishop, B.C
Box: 1 Folder: 5
Bonington, Chris
Box: 1 Folder: 6
Hillary, Edmund
Box: 1 Folder: 7
Levin, E
Box: 1 Folder: 8
Milledge, David
Box: 1 Folder: 9
Milledge, John
Box: 1 Folder: 10
Milledge, Margaret
Box: 1 Folder: 11
Pugh, Griffith
Box: 1 Folder: 12
Schoene, Robert
Box: 1 Folder: 13
Rowlands, S.D
Box: 1 Folder: 14
Ward, Michael
Box: 1 Folder: 15
World Book Encyclopedia
Box: 1 Folder: 16
Young, A

EXPEDITIONS

Silver Hut (1960-1961)

Box: 1 Folder: 17
Equipment needs
Box: 1 Folder: 18
Diary, Volume 1, 13 August - 31 December, 1960
Box: 1 Folder: 19
Diary, Volume 2, 1 January - 6 May, 1961
Box: 1 Folder: 20
Diary of Sherpa climbing..
Box: 1 Folder: 21
Case history of Sherpa..
Box: 1 Folder: 22
Data notebook for ventilation experiments
Box: 1 Folder: 23
Data plot sheets
Box: 1 Folder: 24
Clippings

Second Schoolhouse (1964)

Box: 1 Folder: 25
Diary
Box: 1 Folder: 26
Data notebooks

Am. Medical Research Expedition to Everest (1981)

Box: 2 Folder: 1
Diary
Box: 2 Folder: 2
Clippings, photographs, etc

Kongur (1981)

Box: 2 Folder: 3
Reports
Box: 2 Folder: 4
Research funding
Box: 2 Folder: 5
Clippings, photographs, etc

REPRINTS

Box: 2 Folder: 6
"Himalayan Deputation." In Magazine of Christian Medical College (India), 1965. "40 Years of Medical Research in the Himalayas." In Jouranl of World Mountaineering & Climbing, 1999. (Issue is devoted to a history of mountain medicine.), 1965 - 1999