James Milledge Papers, 1960-1981 (MSS 455)

Extent: 0.6 Linear feet (2 archives boxes)

The papers of James Milledge, a British high altitude physiologist and mountaineer.

James Milledge is a British physiologist educated at the University of Birmingham. Specializing in chest medicine, he was on the staff of Christian Medical College from 1962 to 1972. Since 1972, he has been a scientific member of the the Medical Research Council at Northwick Park Hospital and a consulting physician.

Milledge was a member of the 1960/1961 Silver Hut expedition to Mt. Everest, which was led by Sir Edmund Hillary. He spent the winter months during that expedition at 5800 meters, studying the long term effect of high altitude on humans. In the Second School House expedition to Everest in 1964, also led by Hillary, Milledge investigated some of the physiological differences between Sherpas and lowlanders at high altitude. Milledge was also a member of the American Medical Research Expedition to Everest, which was organized and led by John B. West in 1981.

The papers of James Milledge, a British high altitude physiologist and mountaineer. The collection includes diaries, databooks, correspondence, and clipping files documenting Milledge's participation in the 1960-61, 1964, and 1981 expeditions to Mt. Everest and the 1981 expedition to Mt. Kongur in eastern China. The correspondence is primarily between Milledge and his wife and other family members during Milledge's different visits to Everest.


Container List


Box 1 Folder 1
UC San Francisco Clinical Certificate and Photograph
Box 1 Folder 2


Box 1 Folder 3
American Thoracic Society - Gordon M. Meade
Box 1 Folder 4
Bishop, B.C
Box 1 Folder 5
Bonington, Chris
Box 1 Folder 6
Hillary, Edmund
Box 1 Folder 7
Levin, E
Box 1 Folder 8
Milledge, David
Box 1 Folder 9
Milledge, John
Box 1 Folder 10
Milledge, Margaret
Box 1 Folder 11
Pugh, Griffith
Box 1 Folder 12
Schoene, Robert
Box 1 Folder 13
Rowlands, S.D
Box 1 Folder 14
Ward, Michael
Box 1 Folder 15
World Book Encyclopedia
Box 1 Folder 16
Young, A


Silver Hut (1960-1961)

Box 1 Folder 17
Equipment needs
Box 1 Folder 18
Diary, Volume 1, 13 August - 31 December, 1960
Box 1 Folder 19
Diary, Volume 2, 1 January - 6 May, 1961
Box 1 Folder 20
Diary of Sherpa climbing..
Box 1 Folder 21
Case history of Sherpa..
Box 1 Folder 22
Data notebook for ventilation experiments
Box 1 Folder 23
Data plot sheets
Box 1 Folder 24

Second Schoolhouse (1964)

Box 1 Folder 25
Box 1 Folder 26
Data notebooks

Am. Medical Research Expedition to Everest (1981)

Box 2 Folder 1
Box 2 Folder 2
Clippings, photographs, etc

Kongur (1981)

Box 2 Folder 3
Box 2 Folder 4
Research funding
Box 2 Folder 5
Clippings, photographs, etc


Box 2 Folder 6
"Himalayan Deputation." In Magazine of Christian Medical College (India), 1965. "40 Years of Medical Research in the Himalayas." In Journal of World Mountaineering and Climbing, 1999. (Issue is devoted to a history of mountain medicine.), 1965 - 1999