Scope and Content of Series SERIES 2) BAJA CALIFORNIA, 1967-1992: Ninety-two black-and-white and color images
of people and places in Baja California, including peninsular mission architecture,
historic places, everyday life on remote ranchos, and landmarks along the unpaved
transpeninsular highway. The photographs are arranged in the order in which they were
exhibited. Arranged in three subseries: A) Pre-history and History of Antigua California,
2) Life at Remote Ranches In Baja California, and 3) Landmarks Along the Trans-Peninsular
Highway.
This exhibit is available online: Images of Baja California
The following subseries descriptions were written by Crosby and describe three groups
of exhibited photographs.
A) Pre-History and History of Antigua California
"The Native Americans of the central and lower peninsula disappeared after less than
two centuries of exposure to alien diseases and European ideological and economic
domination. Their material remains are few and, for the most part, inconspicuous.
Thirty years ago, during my first major adventure in Baja California, I was guided
to magnificent displays of rock art, paintings and engravings. That experience-- and
the scant printed information available on the subject-- inspired me to spend fifteen
months in the mountains of the mid-peninsula during the next seven years. My investigations
resulted in the text and illustrations for The Cave Paintings of Baja California [1975]. The pre-historic art of Baja California now attracts admiring visitors from
around the world. The peninsula displays a variety of other remains as well, items
worked from or built of stone: hunting blinds, sleeping circles, metates, manos, and
other miscellaneous implements."
"The permanent Spanish presence in California began with a toehold established in
1697. During the eighteenth century, the mission-based colony grew to encompass the
entire peninsula and expanded onto the mainland to the northwest. I was introduced
to peninsular history when I was hired to illustrate a book commemorating the two
hundredth anniversary [1969] of Spanish entry into Alta California. My experience
did not begin with books or documents, it came in the field in encounters with remains
of mission churches, el camino real-- the inter-mission road-- and other masonry constructions
resulting from early economic activity: mining, pearling, cattle ranching, and mission
agriculture."
"Historic preservation was barely a concept during the peninsula's three Hispanic
centuries. Known losses were great, but most went unrecorded and can only be imagined.
Since the opening of the paved highway in 1973, I have watched the patrimony of the
peninsula suffer accelerating losses from neglect, looting, and development. I hope
that my work will stimulate interest in finding, recording, and preserving the historical
legacy. That is my appeal to Baja California's leaders and residents- and to sincere
aficionados wherever they reside."
B) Life at Remote Ranches in Baja California
"Peninsular California experienced profound changes during the first third of the
nineteenth century. Mexican independence [1821] ended Spanish interest and support;
the new government lacked finances and was primarily involved in its own organization
and solving problems closer to the heart of the republic. By 1830, Baja California
languished for lack of money, supplies, and trade. As the numbers of mission Indians
declined, missions were abandoned or secularized. The Presidio of Loreto, the peninsula's
largest employer, was scaled down, then abandoned. Local men turned to subsistence
ranching or farming on small land claims or, more frequently, to squatting on ex-mission
properties or at remote water sources in the sierras or their foothills. The population,
so dispersed, developed the basis for much of the small economic activity in the area.
The few towns and villages became trading centers where merchants dealt with farmers
and ranchers."
"This economy, with many of its practices and traditions almost unchanged, persisted
to a remarkable degree in 1967 when I first entered the remote areas. However, in
half a dozen years, the paved road brought in the outside world and old ways quickly
began to fade. Goods and produce from the mainland and tourism from the United States
changed the local economy by lowering demand for more expensive local produce and
by creating other needs for local labor. I was extremely fortunate to arrive before
those events, to travel to many dozens of inaccessible ranches, to know their people,
and to experience the last days of a culture hauntingly like that of our own American
West in the nineteenth century. My 1981 book, Last of the Californios , set forth my photographs, my experiences, and my research vis-à-vis this remarkable--
and remarkably nearby-- survival."
C) Landmarks Along the Wheeltracks Grandly Known as the 'Trans-Peninsular Highway'
"Since the second decade of the twentieth century, men have used automobiles to travel
over the more level terrain in various parts of the peninsula. Gradually, after truly
heroic efforts with hand tools and a little dynamite and blasting powder-- the efforts
of various communities, companies, and ranchers made it possible to traverse the entire
length of Baja California, usually with aid from local manpower and mulepower to pass
through the most difficult terrain. By the 1940s, it was possible, with favorable
weather, to drive a high-clearance vehicle from San Diego to San José del Cabo, but
few made the trip without long delays due to mechanical problems or shortages of fuel
or other wondrous difficulties. Such trips were adventures, often the greatest adventures
of the travelers' lives. A cult sprang up around Baja California travel. The individuals
or families that offered gas and meals along the way became in-group personalities.
Howard Gulick and Peter Gerhard put their experiences to use in creating a truly inspired
handbook, Lower California Guidebook -- a historically accurate and geographically sound work that assisted the traveler
and educated him as he went."
"The same set of wheeltracks served the slow-growing peninsular economy as an avenue
for imports from the U. S. and mainland Mexico and for exports of local produce from
fisheries, fields, or herds. Mexican truckers became part of the growing legend; regulars
often provided assistance to visitors in distress, sometimes pulling them from mud
or sand, sometimes transporting vital vehicle parts, sometimes carrying them to places
from which they could get conventional transportation back to their homes. I know
at one time or another, I needed and got all of these services and much more. Travel
was slow in those days, stops were frequent and there was a lot of camaraderie; friendships
were made between fellow travelers and with those who lived or worked along the road.
It was an idyll not truly appreciated until the paved road was built and opened in
1973. Changes were sudden and mostly painful to old-timers, whether gringo or peninsular.
Much of the romance disappeared. Few of those who had provided services along the
old road had the money or political clout to be involved in profits from the new tourism.
An era had ended; Lower California Guidebook is a collectors' item. Sic transit gloria mundi...."
Pre-History and History of Antigua California
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Enrique Hambleton with petroglyphs, Sierra de San Francisco, 1974
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Harry Crosby at Cueva Pintada, Sierra de San Francisco, 1977
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Boca de San Julio, Sierra de San Francisco, 1974
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Prehistoric hunting blinds, 1973
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Daunting view of the Sierra de la Giganta from Chuenque on the Loreto Plain, 1990
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Mision de San Javier seen from a high mesa to the east, 1967
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View of San Javier from the south slope of the arroyo, 1967
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Interior view of Mision de San Javier, 1967
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Plaster detail on the arch beneath the choir loft at Mision de San Javier, 1967
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View from San Javier's belfry, 1967
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Lime kiln midway between the missions at San Javier and San Jose de Comondu, 1986
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Foundations of the church built at Mision de San Jose de Comondu in 1716, 1990
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One of several agricultural plots developed at Mision de San Jose de Comondu, 1967
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Ruins of the chapel at the visiting station of Londo, 1990
Once an important cattle ranch for Mision de Loreto. 15 x 15
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Grapevines at Mision de San Ignacio, 1974
Long the most important of the peninsula's wine producing missions. 15 x 15
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Facade of Mision de San Ignacio, 1967
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Great Muralla, or dike at Mision de San Ignacio, 1971
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Mision de San Luis Gonzaga, 1990
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El Camino Real midway between San Ignacio and Santa Gertrudis, 1967
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El Camino Real in Arroyo del Infierno, 1971
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El Camino Real crosses the Llano del Gentil as it approaches Mision de San Borja, 1967
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El Camino Real crosses the Llano del Gentil - trail marker, 1967
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Mision de Santa Maria de los Angeles, 1967
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Bahia de la Ventana and the Surgidero de Cerralvo, 1992
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Ruins of an eighteenth century silver refining installation, 1974
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Adobe ruins at Santa Ana, 1974
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San Telmo Valley seen from foothills of the Sierra de San Pedro Martir, 1968
Life at Remote Ranches in Baja California
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View to the west looking down the arroyo of Rancho del Potrero, 1980
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View northward over Rancho de San Antonio, 1972
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Rancho de Santa Barbara on the eastern slope of Sierra de San Juan, 1973
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Rancho de Vivelejos, 1980
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Rancho de San Dionisio in the foothills of the Sierra de la Laguna, 1972
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Corredor at Rancho de la Soledad, 1972
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Corredor at Rancho de las Calabazas, 1971
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Rancho de la Purificacion, 1972
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Chapel at Rancho de la Soledad, 1972
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Las Jicamas, a seasonal goat ranch, 1980
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Goats released after milking at Rancho de las Jicamas, 1980
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Drawing water at Rancho de los Pozos, 1971
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Kitchen scene at Rancho de Pie de la Cuesta, 1971
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Kitchen scene at Rancho de la Vinorama [de arriba], 1980
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Berta's mural at Rancho de Santa Marta, 1973
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Treadle sewing machine at Rancho de Pie de la Cuesta, 1971
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Grindstone at Rancho de Guadalupe, 1980
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Tanning Vats at Rancho de San Nicolas, 1971
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Flume at Rancho de San Gregorio, 1971
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Picking dates at Rancho de San Martin, 1980
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Cattle in the tinaja at Rancho del Zorillo, 1980
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Mule roundup near Rancho de San Martin, 1980
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Mules in stone corral at Rancho de Vivelejos, 1980
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Packtrain crosses the mesa del Tabardillo, 1977
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Opening a cattle gate between the ranches of San Nicolas and San Pablo, 1973
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Return from a three-day roundtrip to the nearest store, 1980
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My party starts the descent from San Gabriel to San Narciso, 1980
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Ranchers from San Antonio guide their animals through Arroyo del Infierno, 1971
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Burros rest between burdens at Rancho Carricito, 1980
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Loading a burro at Rancho de Santa Cruz, 1972
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Loaded burros stop for water at Rancho de Guadalupe, 1980
Landmarks Along the Trans-Peninsular Highway
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San Felipe as it was...., 1952
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Landform fifteen miles southeast of El Rosario, 1990
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Laguna Seca de Chapala, 1967
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Laguna Seca de Chapala, 1967
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Gas Station/Rest Stop near Mezquital, 1971
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Gas Station/Rest Stop near Mezquital, 1971
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Roadside butcher shop in Villa Insurgentes, 1967
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Hulks of old cars at Calmalli, 1971
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Hulks of old cars at Calmalli, 1967
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Stretch of the old dirt road near Rancho del Tablon, 1971
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Old road into San Ignacio, 1971
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Frank Fischer's Garage in San Ignacio
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Frank Fischer's Garage in San Ignacio
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Frank Fischer's Garage in San Ignacio
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Frank Fischer's Garage in San Ignacio
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Windmill and pump built from auto parts near San Ignacio, 1972
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Old road from San Ignacio to Santa Rosalia, 1975
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Santa Rosalia near sunset, 1967
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Santa Rosalia: the Boleo mill in action, 1967
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Santa Rosalia: Scrapped railroad wheels at the Boleo mill, 1967
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Santa Rosalia: Narrow gauge engine at the Boleo mill, 1967
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Santa Rosalia: A worker oiling machinery at the Boleo mill, 1967
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Local ranchers scan horizon from atop El Picacho in the Sierra de la Laguna, 1972
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Red volcanic agglomerate cliff in Arroyo de San Pablo, 1977
Sierra de San Francisco. 15 x 15
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Morning mists at Mesa del Tabardillo, northwest Sierra de San Francisco, 1977
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Sea of Cortez from a beach north of the salina at San Evarito, 1972
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Sea of Cortez from a beach south of Los Dolores, 1972
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Large zalates (ficus palmeri) flourish in canyon above San Sebastian, 1967
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Great Tinaja in Arroyo del Parral, 1971